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‘Universal Passport’ Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 Menswear Presentation

‘This presentation is all about the power and the beauty of self-expression and about escaping and coming together as one to celebrate our creativity.

I have always been inspired by music and by its ability to transport your mind – how it can connect you with times, places and people beyond boundaries. Music has played a big role in my life, like a running soundtrack and energy throughout my youth. So many of my memories forged through music take me back to an incredible time when I was discovering myself – my voice, my identity, my creativity – sharing my experiences with friends and sometimes even strangers along the way. It was like being on a universal journey, brought together by a collective sense of openness, acceptance and opportunity.

I wanted the collection to capture that free spirit of youth and its honest and daring attitude, that sense of experimentation and fluidity. There is a strong feeling of unity but also of individuality – encouraging and uplifting each other to express ourselves freely. It’s a very raw energy that’s infectious, exciting and full of life. Like an awakening.’

Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer

For the Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 menswear presentation, Riccardo Tisci melds the feelings of freedom and togetherness in an exploration of the forces that connect and inspire us – those which make us feel alive. Creating a moment of youthful positivity, the presentation gracefully centres on the power of the spiritual and the energy of music and movement.

Filmed in the outdoors, swathes of sand are contrasted against the minimalist and raw urban structure of the striking Millennium Mills in Royal Victoria Docks, East London. A slew of models cut a bold path through the set, each distinguished with daring individuality. In an unflinchingly honest representation of freedom of expression, the collection challenges conventional codes with assured fluidity. The looks brim with youthful experimentation and sensuality, expressed through rebellious faux piercing accessories and black leather halterneck vests, coats and briefs. Tailoring and outerwear are similarly readdressed with sleeveless non-conforming silhouettes and abstract prints. The collection’s name ‘Universal Passport’ can be seen emblazoned across sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming the presentation’s message of connectivity and exploration.

A trance-like soundtrack acts as the anthem to draw together additional gatherings of revellers, interspersed throughout the space yet transported to another plane by the music of British-formed music group Shpongle. The music transcends the everyday to an open, uninhibited space where individuals come together to connect, actively participating in this collective experience to celebrate creativity without boundaries. An exaltation of dynamic youth.

Drawing upon Burberry’s long-standing support of community spirit and freedom of expression, Riccardo Tisci curates an energetic experience full of anticipation for the discovery of new and unknown spaces to explore together.

THE COLLECTION

Outerwear staples are pushed to the fore in new sleeveless non-conforming silhouettes. The iconic trench coat is re-cut with raglan and panelled capped sleeves as well as with a stand collar. Cotton twill car coats forego collars and add buttoned shoulders, transforming the design into a boat-neck style. Sleeveless leather bomber jackets return with accentuated rib-knit trims and press-stud straps.

An experimental sense of freedom is conveyed throughout the collection, seen through black leather halterneck vests, coats, trousers and briefs. Cotton vests and hoodies are refashioned with organic-shaped leather panels and cut-out details for a rebellious take on staples. The playful chest plate motif printed across T-shirts and trench coats. The collection title, ‘Universal Passport’, featured on sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming a message of connectivity and exploration.

An ode to the escapism of the outdoors continues. Sleeveless shirts, shorts and trousers with proliferated strap details, contrasting topstitched bib-front trousers and exaggerated adornments on hoods. Symmetrical rows of cargo straps fixed to the front of coats. A sleeveless leather funnel-neck dress and skirts crafted for movement. Abstract curved prints on sheer T-shirts, mesh vests and cotton shirts evoke the flowing forms of camouflage. Tailoring challenges the conventional. Coats and English-fit blazers with button-embellished lapels, worn with tailored trousers. Reconstructed shirts with layered turtlenecks, or bib-front button-down shirts.

In womenswear, a continuation of metallic finishes fused with the season’s sheer fabrics. Abstract motifs adorn a lamé slip dress layered under a printed sheer top. The trench in sequinned sheer fabric with zebra-print trims. Mirrored square sequins applied to bikinis with a wrap-around strap detail, worn under cargo trousers and a gilet quilted with a globe graphic motif.

BAGS

Introducing new quilted check leather bags, including a backpack and crossbody, both embellished with the Thomas Burberry Monogram. Simply proportioned leather messenger bags with whipstitch straps in beige or monochrome, stamped with the ‘Universal Passport’ print.

SHOES

Men’s panelled canvas high-top sneakers and leather high-top sneakers with ankle straps and technical trims. Women’s square sequin-embellished leather sandals with ankle straps and technical trims.

KEY COLOURS

Burberry beige, bright red, peach pink, blue topaz and black and white.

HAIR AND MAKE-UP

Hair: Jawara
Make-up: Isamaya Ffrench, Burberry Global Beauty Director

ACCESSORIES

An oversized padded baseball cap with exaggerated tabs. Punk-inspired hoop jewellery in solid, transparent, metallic and tortoiseshell finishes. Chunky-knit headbands, worn atop leather and cotton-canvas baseball caps. Sporty new frames in eyewear including orange or black ski goggles, and transparent orange, pink or tortoiseshell acetate navigator sunglasses.

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